Hemp has a long history as a natural fiber, but certain myths have kept it out of textile markets. This page is dedicated to abolishing those myths.
Low THC (<0.3%)
Used for textiles + apparel
Non-psychoactive
High THC (>0.3%)
arrow_warm_upUsed casually + medically
medical_servicesPsychoactive
cognitionHemp is a natural fiber that comes from the Cannabis sativa plant, but unlike marijuana, which has high levels of THC (>0.3%) hemp contains extremely low levels of THC (<0.3%) [R-027]; THC is the psychoactive compound associated with getting “high.” Hemp used for textiles is non-psychoactive, legally grown in many parts of the world, and has been used historically for products like rope, paper, clothing, and fabric [R-007, R-012, R-027].
Today, hemp is gaining attention as a versatile natural fiber that can complement existing textile materials across a variety of applications. Hemp fabrics are known for their durability, breathability, biodegradability, and their ability to soften over time with use. Hemp can also be grown using relatively low amounts of water and pesticides, contributing to growing interest in the fiber among manufacturers, designers, and consumers [R-006, R-009, R-012, R-014]. Despite these qualities, hemp fabrics are still often misunderstood due to long-standing associations with marijuana and limited exposure within mainstream textile markets.
All textile arts, such as quiltmaking, invovle hands-on work where makers interact directly with materials through cutting, sewing, layering, and touch. This hands-on experience creates a unique opportunity to evaluate hemp fabrics based on real performance rather than assumptions.
Hemp fibers are known for their strength and long-lasting quality [R-005, R-008].
Hemp fabric is breathable and gets softer with every wash and use [R-009, R-025]; there is no limit to how soft it can get.
"Hemp is the same as marijuana"
While hemp and marijuana come from the same plant species [R-027], they are grown and used very differently. Textile hemp contains very low THC levels [R-027] and is used for industrial applications like fabric, rope, and paper [R-007, R-012].
"Hemp fabric is rough"
Modern hemp fabrics can range from structured and textured to soft and breathable depending on the weave and blend [R-025]. Many hemp fabrics become softer over time with washing and regular use [R-009].
"Hemp isn't practical for the textile arts"
Part of this project explores exactly that question. By gathering feedback from quilters and testing material experiences, the project aims to better understand hemp's usability, comfort, and creative potential for handmade craftsmanship.
One of the goals of this project was to better understand how hemp fabrics perform compared to materials commonly used in quilting. To explore this, we conducted a series of material tests evaluating tear strength, abrasion resistance, drape, and shrinkage across different fabric types. Rather than relying on assumptions about hemp’s feel or durability, these tests provide measurable data about how the material performs under real-world conditions. By comparing hemp directly with fabrics familiar to makers, like cotton and linen, we hope to better understand its strengths, limitations, and potential applicatioms within quiltmaking and the textile arts.
To make meaningful comparisons, we tested four fabrics that represent a range of fiber blends, textures, and aesthetics familiar to quiltmakers. This allowed us to compare hemp fabrics directly to materials commonly used in quiltmaking and textile arts.
The four fabrics tested were: 1) Hemp Traders hemp/cotton muslin (55% hemp, 45% organic cotton); 2) Robert Kaufman Kona Cotton (100% cotton); 3) Robert Kaufman Essex Linen (55% linen, 45% cotton); 4) Diamond Textiles Nikko Sashiko (100% cotton).
The following tests examine several fabric characteristics that are important to quiltmakers, including tear strength, abrasion resistance, drape, and shrinkage. Together, these tests allow us explore how hemp fabrics compare to materials commonly used in quiltmaking.
Key Takeaway: The hemp/cotton muslin performed similarly to other well-known quilting fabrics, suggesting that hemp-blend fabrics can provide strength and durability comparable to materials quiltmakers already know and use.
The tear test measures how much force is needed to tear a fabric. Higher values indicate greater resistance to tearing. In woven fabrics, warp threads run lengthwise while weft threads run across the width of the fabric.
Key Takeaway: The hemp/cotton muslin performed well in the abrasion test, showing the highest resistance to wear of all four fabrics tested, suggesting that hemp-blend fabrics may offer durability comparable to commonly used quilting fabrics.
The abrasion test measures how well a fabric withstands repeated rubbing and wear. Higher values indicate that the fabric lasted longer before showing damage.
Key Takeaway: The hemp/cotton muslin draped similarly to Kona Cotton, suggesting that hemp-blend fabrics can provide handling and aesthetic characteristics familiar to quiltmakers.
The drape test measures how a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight. A higher drape coefficient indicates a stiffer fabric, while a lower drape coefficient indicates greater flexibility and flow.
Key Takeaway: The hemp/cotton muslin shrank by an amount similar to Essex Linen, suggesting that hemp-blend fabrics behave much like other natural-fiber fabrics commonly used in quiltmaking. Like many fabrics made from natural fibers, pre-washing may help reduce unexpected shrinkage before a project is sewn.
The shrinkage test measures how much a fabric changes in size after washing. Lower percentages indicate less shrinkage after laundering.
Across all four tests, the Hemp Traders hemp/cotton muslin performed similarly to other fabrics commonly used in quiltmaking. The results suggest that hemp-blend fabrics can offer provide performance characteristics similar to fabrics many quiltmakers already know and use, while offering another natural-fiber option to consider. What do you think? We invite you to share your perspectives and experiences with hemp fabrics through our community survey.
